Mascara is a cosmetic product for application to eyelashes: the main cosmetic effects required for this type of product are the volume increase (volumizing), eyelashes elongation and curling; mascaras must also have characteristics useful for their application, i.e. sufficient fluidity, spreadability, adhesiveness to the eyelashes, absence of lumps, easy spreadability during make-up removal, etc.; these characteristics are not always easy to combine with eyelash thickening/elongation/curling cosmetic effects.
Mascaras are generally based on emulsifying systems associated with oils, waxes or lipophilic substances, to obtain a sufficiently fluid base; they are associated with polymeric and/or fibrous products useful to afford consistency and obtain eyelashes thickening/elongation, as well as dyes to confer color; the use of film-forming agents promoting product adhesion and uniform eyelashes coverage is also widespread.
In the field there are numerous publications and patents, often focused on specific mascara ingredients and/or combinations thereof. For example, two patent publications FR2984124 and WO2013007599, relate to an emulsifying system that ensures emulsion stability in order to obtain a mascara characterized by a thick texture allowing a homogeneous volumizing deposit on the eyelashes.
Patent application CN103893097 refers to liquid or solvent-type (waterproof) mascaras with properties of easy removal (“caring properties”); they obtain an eyelashes lengthening effect by use of various types of polymers, combination of synthetic fibers and film-forming agents or polymer-coated synthetic fibers.
The “curling” effect has been highlighted, for example, in patent application WO2011158161, by the use of retractable fibers based on polyethylene terephthalates which change length and shape in response to an external stimulus.
Patent application WO2014105733 shows an improvement in properties such as thickness, length, curling, better separation of eyelashes, resistance to spreading or formation of clots and easy removal by using at least one film-forming polymer, at least one silicone elastomer and at least one wax.
Patent application US2013/0164241 shows “primer” formulations and mascara formulations giving a lengthening and thickening effect (thick eyelashes), easy to remove and with no damages to the eyelashes; the “primer”, based on synthetic polymers, is applied directly on the eyelashes and dries quickly: this allows users to apply a second mascara formulation where the primer has been applied, creating the requested substantivity for the second application consisting of mascara; also the “primer” formulation is easily washed out from the eyelashes, resulting in easy removability of the second mascara formulation; this mascara contains a mixture of synthetic fibers in combination with synthetic and natural film-forming compound which retain fibers in situ and extend the eyelashes.
Korean patent application KR200026081 uses hemp and bamboo cellulose in combination with synthetic film-forming agents (alkyl acrylate copolymers).
Long and thick eyelashes are also obtained with the mascara described in patent application JP2002308735: this product contains cotton, linen, silk fibers associated with an emulsion of acrylic copolymers.
WO2012/012084 describes naturally-derived mascara compositions with a fixative system comprising a natural polymeric film-forming system comprising pullulan and candelilla wax resin, and a natural plasticizer rosin and a sebacic acid/castor oil copolymer, such ingredients being taught as responsible for obtaining lengthening and volumizing effects; various excipients, inter alia fiber materials, can be optionally added to the composition to the extent that they do not interfere.
US2004/0219124 exemplifies a non-emulsified, oil/wax-free facial mask composition including inter alia polyethylene glycol and psyllium husk powder; the mask, further including facial slimming ingredients and antioxidants, has the property of being peeled-off in one piece as a consistent film.
US2015/0297473 exemplifies acrylates-based mascara compositions forming a lamellar phase; the description mentions a list of optional ingredients, e.g. thickeners, among which Psyllium husks powder is generally mentioned.
In this field the use of synthetic film-forming polymers such as e.g. polyacrylates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyolefins, silicones and their polymers, polyesters, polyacetates, etc. is very common; such products are increasingly less desirable by consumers, both in view of possible incorporation of toxic residues deriving from synthesis process, and for the growing trend in preferring natural products having low impact on the human body and environment. However, it is difficult avoiding the use of those products as they are essential in promoting high adhesion and uniform eyelashes coverage, such that the tendency to reduce the “synthetic” mascara component is often accompanied by a reduction in performance, e.g. in terms of adhesiveness or coating homogeneity. The present invention addresses and solves these problems, providing a new natural-based mascara, with a simple and effective composition, which avoids the use of synthetic polymers, having performance characteristics equal or even higher than those of the products commonly in use.